In November 1998 came our first trip to the Holy Land. One thing I remember is how uncrowded it was. We were able to get inside the Edicule and say Mass over His tomb. And then in Bethlehem, we were able to say Mass at an altar next to the marker of the spot of His birth. Big difference in our 2008 visit. And, of course, the thrill of receiving the Pilgrim’s Shell from the Latin Patriarch. In those days, Christians could enter and view the Dome of the Rock on the Temple Mount. It was unnerving to see all the weapons and Israeli soldiers around, as well as the armed Palestinian forces.
